Wednesday, May 13, 2009

 

Wednesday Magic in Phuket

Hello again,
I am writing earlier today - maybe we will be a bit more sociable this evening!
Today has been one of those magical days, when plans, that might have seemed set and planned, suddenly turned and created something special.
But to begin at the beginning.
Up early and off to school with John.
There were a few more photographs of John and then some of Jessica in her class, looking coy and embarrassed "Oh no, my grandmother is taking pictures in my classroom!"
We took Jamie to work and then drove to Phuket City - the main town on the east side of the island; and in times past was the only town of any size. It is a port and was the centre of the tin mining industry.
It was the original, old part that we wanted to see - and this time we were armed with more information.
We parked easily in Thalang Road. This road is full of Muslim shops selling fabrics, sarongs, scarves etc. They are very colourful.
Muslim women here do not wear veils of any kind - many do wear a simple hat.
We looked in an art shop - lined with bright pictures showing traditional designs and some more erotic fantasies! The artist was busy on the floor with a more mundane commission; he was painting a huge banner for somebody - mostly words.
We turned into Phang Nga Road and quickly found the alleyway leading to the Chinese temple that Jamie has written about on his blog - The Temple of Serene Light.
We admired and photographed, enjoying the peaceful oasis tucked away within the busy streets.
The light actually looked quite threatening whilst we were there.
It began to rain as we left..... and my, didn't it rain!
For a while we sheltered under the awning of a shop and then dashed across the road to some sort of food hall.
We bought cold lemon teas and watched the rain bouncing on the road and the many motor cyclists in bright coloured plastic capes ploughing through the water.
At last the rain seemed to ease and we continued on our way, pointing cameras at old windows - always covered with thick heavy cables. Cables and poles line every street in Thailand.
Our next stop was the museum - but not before chatting with an individual who greeted us with the normal "Sawadee Ka" - a strange voice I thought and walked a little way into the shop or workshop to be greeted again by a mynah bird.
The museum is housed in an early Chinese influence building, which in its early days had been a school. Admission was free.
The history of the City is told and all its influences in many spheres of life explored.
Their large colour photographs of the older buildings were good and we photographed some of them for our own use.
It was then time for lunch. " Good local food" said the young man at the museum "on the corner". But which corner?
Just by the nearest corner we did indeed find the sort of exceedingly unpretentious place that Thailand abound in. Inside the floor is concrete and the painted concrete walls are peeling; at the back and up some stairs is living accommodation.
A young woman, hardly more than a girl was busy; she deftly turned items in the wok over a high flame, served rice and created other dishes. We ordered noodles with chicken (Bill pork) and all sorts of other things in a spicy soup. I couldn't resist more spicy prawns as well. We both had drinks of course and as much water as we wanted. The bill came to 140 Baht - 2 pound eighty.
Back in Thalang Road we turned down a narrow side street, which is most attractive from where we could see a Buddhist Temple. We walked round the outside of the Buddhist temple, admiring the decoration.
Our plan then was to walk back up Soi Romanee (the narrow side street), photograph some of the fabric shops and then drive up Rang Hill for a good coffee and tea.
On our way we paused to watch a man creating a mosaic doorstep for his cafe. "You want tea?" he asked. Well, we were set on Rang Hill....... but after taking some photographs of his step we went in and ordered tea and coffee.
The place was a delight.... called Glasnost, and was a jazz cafe.
The tea was good, with little cakes and followed by another hot tea in a glass.
We chuckled to each other that our cups of tea would cost more than our lunch!
But, whatever... it was worth it for the decor, friendliness of the people and the ambiance of the place...... and the sound of Ella Fitzgerald in the background.
I told our host that we had seen Ella in concert when we were much younger..... "Ah!" he purred "there will never be another like her!".
And so we sat and talked for well over an hour. Our man's colleague had a restaurant at Nai Hang she told us... "be sure to visit" she said.
Then we learned of the monthly jazz weekends held there - anybody who performed, well or badly, could eat and drink for free.
He told me of his friend who was the lead player with a band called Caravan. This band would play in December when it was the king's birthday. I learned that the king began playing jazz aged 15 and he loves Dixieland.
Soon our host was writing information in his notebook and I was telling him that Jamie would come some time and put Glasnost on his Phuket blog.
We had not performed, either well or badly. but we were told that the drinks were a treat for us.
When a gift comes from nowhere we should rejoice and remember to pass on another gift to people we meet.
By this time Rang Hill was well forgotten!
We left with Ella still singing.
We were home before the family. We have showered and changed.
I think Bill and I might eat out tonight. This might make it easier to establish the routine of getting the children in bed earlier on school nights.
But anything else might crop up.